Вазелин в косметике. Косметический вазелин

Вазелин. Искусственный, ксометический вазелин представляет собой смесь твердого парафина, вазелинового масла и цезерина. Однако, даже будучи очищенным, этот компонент способен забивает поры и задерживает кожную секрецию и дыхание. Кроме того, вазелин перекрывает доступ кислорода и способен вызвать аллергическую реакцию.

Несмотря на незаслуженно плохую репутацию, именно вазелин (при условии, что он очень тщательно очищен) служит тем инертным, гипоаллергенным средством, которое моментально закрывает прорехи в барьере и позволяет коже собраться с силами. Когда коже требуется неотложная помощь, применяют вещества, позволяющие временно создать искусственный барьер. Вазелин и средства на его основе чаще всего применяют после медицинских и косметических процедур, приводящих к удалению рогового слоя, таких, как лазерная шлифовка, дермабразия (механическое удаление эпидермиса), пилинг.

Недостатки вазелина — плохая впитываемость, из-за которой он лежит на коже жирным слоем, и сильный окклюзивный эффект (блокирование испарения влаги). Вазелин рекомендуют применять лишь при остром разрушении эпидермального барьера, когда нужно предупредить слишком бурную реакцию клеток кожи, внезапно лишившихся внешней защиты, а также в тех ситуациях, когда кожа не способна сама формировать полноценный барьер. В остальных случаях блокировать испарение воды через поврежденный роговой слой не рекомендуют. Дело в том, что усиленное испарение служит главным сигналом к началу «ремонтных работ», а искусственный барьер «дезинформирует» клетки кожи.

По материалам журнала «Наука и жизнь»

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