Эффективные солнцезащитные фильтры в составе косметики

Прежде чем купить солнцезащитное средство, обратите внимание не на прокламации к нему, а на его состав, не поленитесь и изучите его. А список фильтров, которые обладают эффективным солнцезащитным действием, вы найдете в статье:


В зависимости от пика максимального поглощения в солнечном спектре органический фильтр классифицируется УФА или УФВ (ссылка). Некоторые фильтры, например, Mexoryl-XL могут поглощать лучи различной длины волны и таким образом дают широкую защиту от лучей. Но для оптимальной защиты от солнца требуется сочетание в достаточном количестве нескольких фильтров УФА и УФВ.

Солнечные фильтры делятся на светостойкие (фотостабильные) и не светостойкие. Светостойкие не теряют своей эффективности от воздействия солнца, а вот не светостойкие наоборот: некоторые подобные фильтры могут терять до 25% своей эффективности после 3 часов нахождения на солнце.

Список светостойких (фотостабильных) солнечных фильтров, они защищают от УФВ/УФА коротких лучей и УФА длинных лучей:

  • диоксид титана (titanium dioxide)
  • оксид цинка (zinc oxide)
  • Mexoryl XL (drometrizole trisiloxane)
  • Tinosorb M (methylene bis-benzotriazolyl)
  • Tinosorb S (bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine)

защита от коротких лучей УФА/УФВ:

  • Mexoryl SX (terephtalilydene dicamphor sulfonic acid)
  • октокрилен (octocrylene или Parsol 340)

защита от УФВ-лучей:

  • Parsol 5000 (4-methylbenzylidene camphor)
  • Parsol SLX (Polysiloxane-15)

Солнечными фильтрами нового поколения являются Tinosorb M и Tinosorb S и Uvinul A+.

Не устойчивыми к воздействию солнца, являются фильтры:

  • ЭМС (этилгексилметоксициннамат, также иногда называемый октил метоксициннамат, OMC или Parsol MCX) — весьма неустойчивый фильтр, хотя и используется до сих пор во многих солнцезащитных продуктах. Его сочетание с авобензоном также дает негативный результат: потеря 40% поглощающей способности после 3 часов нахождения на солнце;
  • бензофеноны (benzophenone-2, -3, -4, -9) — широко используются в солнцезащитных средствах, так как они дают хорошую защиту от УФА и УФВ-лучей. Однако бензофенон-3 или оксибензон подозревают в том, что он может быть связан с аллергическими реакциями, в том числе с возникновением гормональных нарушений и разрушением клеток, как показало исследование американской экологической организации Environmental Working Group (EWG);
  • парааминобензойная кислота ПАБК и ее эфиры (например, octyl dimethyl PABA) — появилась еще в 1970-е, но сегодня к ней много нареканий в связи с тем, что этот ингредиент может вызывать раздражение и повышать фоточувствительность кожи; некоторые марки указывают на своих продуктах «PABA-free» или «без ПАБК»;
  • авобензон (avobenzone или butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, бутил метоксидибензоилметан, коммерческое название Parsol 1789). Авобензон является очень хорошим органическим фильтром УФА, но не фотостабильным. Поэтому его обычно комбинируют с другими фильтрами, например, октрокриленом.

Powerful Sun Protection SPF 45 Sunscreen Cream, $42

Очень важный момент! Приобретаемый Вами солнцезащитное средство должно содержать в своем составе как минимум 2-3 фотостабильных фильтра широкого охвата, например, Mexoryl XL и Mexoryl SX, сочетать авобензон с диоксидом титана или авобензон с октокриленом.

Лучшая солнцезащитная косметика

  • M.D. Skincare by Dr. Dennis Gross Powerful Sun Protection SPF 30 Sunscreen Lotion ($42 for 5 ounces)
  • Mary Kay SPF 30 Sunscreen ($14 for 4 ounces)
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Отзывов: 50 на «Эффективные солнцезащитные фильтры в составе косметики»
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