Масла в составе косметики

Под определение «масла» попадает огромное количество разных веществ, как природного масла в составе косметики(растительного, животного, неорганического), так и синтетического происхождения, причем их комбинация в каждом конкретном креме или лосьоне может быть совершенно различной. В кремах масел может быть от 3-5 %, если это легкие крем-гели, и до 70% в массажных и защитных «зимних» кремах.

К растительным маслам относятся: соевое, кукурузное, подсолнечное, оливковое, касторовое, льняное, масло виноградных косточек, облепиховое масло, масло зародышей пшеницы, масло нероли, масло макадамии и многие другие. Следует отметить, что если первые из перечисленных масел (соевое, кукурузное, подсолнечное, оливковое, касторовое) достаточно дешевы и могут вводиться в рецептуру в больших количествах, то масло зародышей пшеницы или масло макадамии, к примеру, — продукты дорогие, и зачастую их добавляют в крема в настолько маленьких количествах, что никакого радикального положительного эффекта на кожу они производить не могут, невзирая на свои замечательные свойства в чистом виде.

К животным маслам (корректнее — жирам) можно отнести как широко распространенные ланолин и его производные, холестерин, так и не совсем привычные для нас барсучий жир, медвежье сало, гусиный жир, и давно уже широко не применяющийся в косметике натуральный спермацет (китовый жир).

Примерами неорганических «природных» масел являются масла минеральное и вазелиновое, получаемые при переработке нефти.

В качестве синтетических масел могут использоваться разнообразные сложные эфиры высокомолекулярных кислот и спиртов, по своей сути являющиеся аналогами продуктов природного происхождения. Так, к примеру, когда в 1986 году Международной китобойной комиссией (IWC) был принят глобальный запрет на коммерческий промысел китов, косметическим компаниям не оставалось ничего иного, как подбирать синтетический аналог натурального спермацета, которым оказался пальмитиновый эфир цетилового спирта (цетилпальмитат). Другими примерами служат: изопропил миристат, изопропил пальмитат, С12-15 алкил бензоат, этилгексил пальмитат, миристил миристат, каприлик/каприк триглицериды, цетеарил стеарат и прочие эфиры.

Действие масел на кожу многогранно. Сразу после нанесения крема, будучи распределены по поверхности кожи, масла образуют защитную пленку, уменьшающую испарение влаги с поверхности кожи и снижающую ее потерю из более глубоких слоев. Здесь, на первой стадии, масла выполняют функцию смягчения и увлажнения кожи. Постепенно масла взаимодействуют с естественными жирами кожи и впитываются, начиная более активно участвовать в физико-химических процессах, влиять на свойства и структуру кожных покровов. В зависимости от химического состава масла может уменьшиться или возрасти потеря кожей влаги, измениться проникающая способность защитного барьера кожи для доступности других ингредиентов.

Достаточно сложно судить о преимуществах или недостатках того или иного вида масел, все имеют свои плюсы и минусы. Так ланолин, получаемый при промывании состриженной овечьей шерсти, к примеру, обладает замечательными смягчающими свойствами, но при этом потребителей может настораживать его животное происхождение, к тому же считается, что он может приводить к образованию сальных пробок в порах кожи.

Подобные проблемы могут возникнуть и при применении минерального масла, хотя в остальном этот продукт нейтрален, не содержит компонентов, вызывающих аллергию, обладает хорошими защитными свойствами.

Натуральные растительные масла являются самыми «легкими», хотя, к сожалению, и тут не обходится без некоторых но: конечному потребителю очень сложно, практически невозможно проверить, не обрабатывались ли те масличные растения всевозможными «химикатами» при выращивании, не были ли они генетически модифицированными. К тому же, растительные масла представляют собой настоящий «коктейль» из нескольких химических веществ. Если составы традиционных растительных масел более или менее известны, и вы знаете реакцию своего организма на них (используемые в кулинарии масла подсолнечное, оливковое и кукурузное), то, когда речь заходит о каких-то экзотических маслах, — это повод насторожиться людям с чувствительной кожей и склонных к аллергии.

Синтетические же масла у многих вызывают настороженность хотя бы тем фактом, что они полностью получены искусственным путем. С одной стороны, вещества, используемые при производстве синтетических масел, не всегда безопасны и их следы могут оставаться в готовых продуктах. В то же время, состав каждого отдельного вида синтетического масла строго проверяется при производственных процессах, он не зависит от условий выращивания, погоды и прочих факторов, сильно влияющих на состав природных масел. Поэтому, однажды выяснив, что у вас нет аллергии на определенный перечень синтетических масел, вы в дальнейшем можете покупать кремы, их содержащие, при условии отсутствия в составе крема других аллергенов

Полезные свойства некоторых масел в составе косметики:

Масло зародышей пшеницы. Богато витамином Е, обладает регенерирующим, увлажняющим, смягчающим действием. Особенно рекомендуется для зрелой или увядающей кожи.
Масло австралийского ореха макадамия. По своим свойствам подобно норковому жиру, легко впитывается в кожу, смягчает и хорошо питает ее.

Масло жожоба, или китайского буксуса, — жидкий воск из плодов пустынного кустарника. По химическому составу близко секрету сальных желез. Благоприятно действует на кожу.

Касторовое масло получают из свежих и зрелых семян клещевины, освобожденных от оболочек. Хорошо убирает пигментные пятна, отбеливает и питает кожу.

Кунжутное, или сезамовое, масло богато витаминами, эффективно, против свободных радикалов. Оказывает гармонизирующее действие на кожу и организм в целом. Рекомендуется для ухода за кожей вокруг глаз и нежной детской кожей.

Масло люпина укрепляет не только структуру оболочек клеток рогового слоя для уменьшения испарения влаги, но и связи между клетками эпидермиса, играя роль динамического катализатора в синтезе липидов в коже.

Миндальное масло обладает хорошим смягчающим и питательным действием. Благодаря своей жирности очень эффективно для сухой и чувствительной кожи.

Репейное масло — масляная вытяжка из корней лопуха — оказывает тонизирующее, бактерицидное и противоаллергическое воздействие на кожу и волосы. Поэтому оно широко применяется в препаратах для проблемной кожи, против угревой сыпи и входит в состав регенерирующих кремов для увядающей кожи. (В шампунях используется как противоперхотный компонент.)

Масла семян черной смородины, энотеры, бурачника. Все эти масла содержат незаменимые жирные кислоты омега-6 и омега-3. Они ускоряют восстановление эпидермального барьера и уменьшают раздражение кожи. Масла применяют для восстановления сухой, шелушащейся, раздраженной кожи и в комплексной терапии кожных заболеваний.

Кукурузное или маисовое масло / Corn Oil. Продукт экстракции или прессования зародышей кукурузного зерна (Zea mays). Содержит линолевую (50–55%) и олеиновую (30–40%) кислоты. В его состав входят токоферолы и феруловая кислота, которые являются природными антиоксидантами и определяют устойчивость масла к прогорканию. В масле присутствует лецитин, причем в экстрактовом кукурузном масле его примерно в 10 раз больше, чем в масле, полученном прессованием. Ценный косметический продукт благодаря высокому содержанию ненасыщенных жирных кислот и фосфатидов (лецитина) рекомендуется для использования в средствах по уходу за кожей и волосами и декоративной косметике.

Лавандовое масло. Эфирное масло из соцветий лаванды (Lavandula vera). Подвижная бесцветная или желтовато-зеленоватая жидкость с приятным запахом цветков лаванды. Относится к горючим или легко воспламеняющимся жидкостям. Лавандовое масло содержит около 300 различных органических соединений, главными из которых являются (-) линалилацетат, (-) линалоол, терпинен-4-ол лавандулилацетат. Не обладает фототоксическим эффектом и широко применяется в парфюмерии и при изготовлении различных отдушек для косметики. Эффективно действует в случае мигрени, ожогов, кожных заболеваний. Надежный репеллент против моли и других насекомых.
Льняное масло (INCI: Linseed Oil)

Семена льна / Linum. Жидкость зеленовато-желтого цвета с приятным запахом. Содержит до 70% триглицеридов линолевой и y-линоленовой кислот, витамины F, A, E. Используется в средствах по уходу за кожей и особенно за волосами. Основное сырье для получения витамина F.

Макадамия / Macadamia Terniolia Nut Oil. Его еще называют австралийский орех, киндель (Macadamia Ternifolia). Плоды содержат эфирное масло, богатое витаминами, триглицеридами жирных кислот. Масло богато триглицеридами стеариновой (около 60%) и пальмитиновой (21%) кислот, а также витаминами группы В и РР. По своим свойствам подобно норковому жиру, легко впитывается в кожу, смягчает и хорошо питает ее. Может использоваться в средствах декоративной косметики, в кремах, особенно для ухода за сухой и увядающей кожей.

Миртовое масло. Эфирное масло из листьев и веток мирта обыкновенного (Myrtus communis). Желтая жидкость с сильным камфорно-пряным запахом. В состав масла входят а- и в-пинены, лимонен, 1,8-цинеол, терпинен-4-ол, миртенол, гераниол, линалилацетат, карвакрол и др. Масло не обладает фототоксическим эффектом и может без ограничений применяться в парфюмерии и косметике, однако с годами оно используется все реже, что, вероятно, связано со значительным сокращением природных ресурсов. Бактерицидные и дезодорирующие свойства масла используют в ароматерапии, а также в косметических кремах для очистки и лечения кожи лица.
Мяты перечной масло

Эфирное масло из листьев и цветов перечной мяты (Mentha piperita) — желтоватая жидкость с запахом мяты и характерным холодящим вкусом. В состав масла входит большое число соединений терпеноидного строения: ментол, ментон, 1,8-цинеол, ментилацетат, ментофуран, изоментол, а- и в-пинены, лимонен и др. Масло без ограничений применяется в парфюмерии и косметике. Широко используется в производстве зубных паст, жевательных резинок, товаров бытовой химии, некоторых напитков и кондитерских изделий. Помогает снять головную боль, вызванную болезнями печени и пищеварительного тракта. Эффективное средство при лечении болей в суставах, а также от укуса насекомых. Дементолизированные масла (китайское и бразильское) получают из японской мяты.

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Отзывы

Отзывов: 149 на «Масла в составе косметики»
  1. Анна:

    Вы что, какое минеральное масло, не дай бог…:) Хуже для кожи и не придумаешь). Моя любимая смесь для лица та, в которую входит конопляное масло, оно просто супер. Вот такая смесь от Botanicus например.

  2. Оксана:

    Как по мне минеральное масло хорошо только для защиты кожи головы при агрессивных процедурах. В остальном продукт который смазывает и все и ничего полезного не приносит. Единственное на коже поры может забивать.

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