Типы запахов, семейства ароматов в парфюме

В 1990 году Французское Парфюмерное Сообщество во главе с главным парфюмером дома Jean Patou Жаном Керлео окончательно утвердило 7 основных парфюмерных типов, которые в свою очередь образуют разветвленные «семьи» ароматов. Под парфюмерным типом понимается общее строение и впечатление, производимое ароматом, благодаря использованию тех или иных нот.

Заметим, что эти 7 самых основных типов постоянно пополняются все новыми и новыми ответвлениями. Итак, основные семейства ароматов:

Цитрусовые запахи (женские и мужские)

В цитрусовых ощущаются эфирные масла, полученные выжиманием цедры плодов, таких как лимон, мандарин, бергамот, апельсин, грейпфрут и т.д.

Легкое и свежее чувство этих духов хорошо подойдет для уикэнда, либо для особых случаев.

К семейству цитрусовых ароматов относятся: женский парфюм - Eau de Rochas от Rochas и Gieffeffe от Gianfranco Ferre; мужской парфюм — Armani от Giorgio Armani, Drakkar Noir от Guy Laroche, Tommy от Tommy Hilfiger и Blue Jeans от Versace.

Цветочные запахи (женские)

Это семейство, самое важное, группирует духи, главной темой которых является цветок: роза, жасмин, фиалка, сирень, ландыш, нарцисс, тубероза. Цветочные духи обычно состоят из комбинации нескольких различных цветочных ароматов.

К семейству цветочных ароматов относятся: женский парфюм — Chloe от Lagerfeld, Eternity от Calvin Klein, Gucci Accenti и Joy от Jean Patou.

Фруктовые запахи  (женские)

Ароматы в этом семействе включают яблоко, абрикос, мандарин, бергамот, нероли, ананас и папайю. Эти духи чистые и свежие, как цитрусовые, мягкие и теплые, как персик.

К семейству фруктовых ароматов относятся:  Jess от Jessica McClintock, Lauren от Ralph Lauren и Liz Claiborne от L. Claiborne.

Ориентальные или Восточные  запахи (женские и мужские)

Ароматы в этом семействе — это янтарь, ваниль, дерево и смолы. Эти духи лучше всего подходят для вечерней одежды, хотя большинство людей плохо переносят этот плотный аромат.

К семейству восточных ароматов относятся:  Black Pearls от Elizabeth Taylor, Casmir от Chopard, Opuim от Yves Saint Laurent и Shalimar от Guerlain.

Морские, Озоновые, Океанические запахи (женские и мужские)

Ароматы в этом семействе — это полностью синтетические ароматы, напоминающие нам о таких вещах, которые невозможно уместить во флаконе: брызги волн, воздух в горах, природные стихии.

К семейству озоновых ароматов относятся: Acqua Di Gio от Giorgio Armani, Duna от Christian Dior и Sunflower от Elizabeth Arden.

Пряные запахи (женские и мужские)

Ароматы этого семейства включают запах имбиря, корицы и кардамона, а также цветы, имеющие пряные ноты, такие как гвоздика и лаванда.

К семейству фруктовых ароматов относятся: Coco от Chanel, KL от Lagerfeld и Poison от Christian Dior; мужские — Bijan и Joop!.

Зеленые запахи (женские)

Ароматы в этом семействе включают розмарин, лаванду, сосну, можжевельник, гиацинт и гальбанум. Это запах зеленых листьев и свежесрезанной травы, смешанной с осенними бризами.

К семейству зеленых ароматов относятся: : Chanel № 19 от Chanel, Gio от Giorgio Armani, Safari от Ralph Lauren и Sung от Alfred Sung.

Древесные запахи (мужские и женские)

Это семейство включает духи с теплыми оттенками, такими как сандал и пачули, иногда сухими, как кедр, и ветивер, а также содержит подсемейство морских (океанских, озоновых) древесных ароматов: мирта, мускуса и голубого ириса. В мужских композициях наряду с древесными присутствуют лавандовые и цитрусовые ноты.

К семейству древесных ароматов относят: Aramis от Estee Lauder, Cool Water от Davidoff, Safari от Ralph Lauren и Lauder от Estee Lauder.

Амбровые или лавандовые запахи (мужские)

Под названием «духи амбровые», группируются композиции с мягкими, пудровыми, ванильными, ладаника-лабданума и ярко выраженными животными нотами. Подсемейство с мягким амбровым запахом наиболее представительно в этой категории. Самые древние, ароматы лавандовых являются чистыми, яркими, натуральными запахами и идеальны для повседневного использования.

К семейству амбровых ароматов относят: Ungaro Collection от Ungaro.

Кожаные запахи (мужские)

Своеобразное в парфюмерии семейство объединило духи с сухими нотами, в которых пытались воспроизвести характерный запах кожи (дым, сожженное дерево, табак) с “головными” цветочными оттенками.  Масло, можжевельник, экстракт березовой коры в виде смолы — все это кожаные запахи. Насыщенная комбинация дымного и мягкого запаха делает это семейство ароматов часто используемым в одеколонах, дезодорантах, гелях и т. п.

К семейству кожаных ароматов относят: English Leather от Dana, Royal Copenhagen и Pour Lui от Oscar de la Renta.

Шипровые запахи (мужские и женские)

Название этого семейства идет от духов, которые Francois Coty, назвал так при их выпуске в 1917 г. Успех этого шипра был таким, что он стал главой крупного cемейства, которое объединяет духи, основанные, главным образом, на аккордах дубового мха, шалфея, лаванды, ладаника-лабданума, пачули, бергамота. Эти ароматы идеально подходят для любителей лесных запахов природы.

К семейству шипровых ароматов относят: женский парфюм - Halston, Knowing от Estee Lauder, Miss Dior от Christian Dior; мужской парфюм - DK Unleaded от Donna Karan.

Папоротниковые или фужерные запахи (мужские и женские)

Французское слово «fougre» переводится как папоротник. Это название не имеет никакого отношения к запаху папоротников, а содержит аккорд из нот лаванды, герани, древесных, дубового мха, кумарина, бергамота и т.д.

К семейству фужерных ароматов относят: женский парфюм - Baryshnikov от Parlux, Cool Water Woman от Davidoff и Safari от Ralph Lauren; мужскиой парфюм — Boss от Hugo Boss и Paco Rabanne.

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Отзывов: 57 на «Типы запахов, семейства ароматов в парфюме»
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